The Long Haul Home

All of us were a bit sorry and saddened to see our road-trip come to an end. We all would have entertained another few days in the wine country—for sure. Our last morning in Cape Town included a leisurely breakfast next door to Daddy Long Legs Boutique Hotel along with a trip back to Victoria Wharf. I visited the Tax Refund for Tourists in the Clock Tower Mall to get my VAT receipts in order—this time with my airline tickets in hand along with my passport. We precisely estimated travel time to the airport stopping to refuel the rental car along the way, and passing miles of the same type of poverty stricken settlements we had seen elsewhere in South Africa.

Seemed like it took forever to find the domestic car rental return for National, but was relatively easy once the Nissan was parked in the proper location. Of course our luggage had expanded with all the accumulated souvenirs/momentos not to mention all the fine wines. At the Simonsig winery we purchased a nicely padded and insulated travel bag for half a dozen bottles which served well as the transport container for the 6 bottles I carried home.

We checked our bags at Nationwide Airlines, the domestic carrier, and proceeded through security to our assigned boarding gate. Our 11:45am flight was posted as delayed until noon. Realistically with our stop in Port Elizabeth, the flight was about an hour late landing in Durban. Needless to say, I was a bit anxious landing in Durban less than two hours before my scheduled departure—with one bag to collect in Durban before heading home. Lindsay seemed cool, calm, and collected when she said, “I’m freaking out” unable to contact Zane who was to have met us at the airport with my bag. Lessons learned for future travels—pack light!

My bag was located at our B&B and safely delivered to the airport by Sho’s friend who lived near the B&B. I monitored all the luggage as Don and Lindsay picked up their rental car and Sho waited for the bag delivery. Once my bag arrived, the repacking frenzy followed. I was sweating profusely by the time I expanded my small wheelie, loaded it up with travel treasures, and filled the voids in my large suitcase with items Don purged from his bag. Locked and loaded, I bade farewell to my traveling companions and checked in with South African Airlines for my return. Kissed Don goodbye at Security as he stayed on for a few more days to SCUBA with Lindsay at choice dive-sites not far from Durban. Once through security I was nearly on my way. With a little time to spare, I took note of the amount of remaining Rands (local currency) and the shopping venues opting to spend what was left at Jo'Berg. Once in Jo'Berg, I quickly unloaded what few Rands I had left.

My return took me from Cape Town, to Port Elizabeth, to Durban, to Johannesburg—all flights in South Africa. The flight from Johannesburg to JFK stopped in Dakar, Senegal, to load/unload passengers and refuel. Breezed through immigration and customs and secured a confirmed seat on the next flight out to San Francisco. The last leg from SFO to PDX was delayed about an hour—approximately the same amount of time the first flight from Cape Town. Once the wheels touched down at PDX, I could hardly wait to get off the plane. From the time I boarded the first plane in Cape Town until the last plane touched down in Portland, nearly 40 hours had passed--definitely a LONG HAUL.

Two Capes, Two Oceans

As it turned out, the hotel Daddy Long Legs’ ER was unavailable, so we booked the room next to the girls’ called Palimpsest—a writers delight, designed by a poet. Once our bags were unloaded, we were off to explore the Cape of Good Hope (convergence of the Atlantic and the Indian Oceans) along with Cape Point. Weather today was dodgy at best with overhanging clouds and threats of rain. Thankful that we chose the brightest day for Table Mountain, the sea was equally visible from our vantage points today.

Rhino helped us navigate the cape route in a counter-clockwise fashion. Stopped for breakfast at Camps Bay where Sho and I ventured out to test the temps of the Atlantic in South Africa. The UCSB student from Santa Barbara CA thought it was COLD. From the perspective of a native Oregonian, it was actually quite warm. On our way to the capes we stopped at Hout Bay and wandered through a craft fair making our selected purchases. We then had the privilege of driving along one of the most scenic coast routes in South Africa, namely Chapman’s Peak Drive. Although a toll road, it was well worth the R22—spectacular views even with overhanging clouds. Made our way south through Noordhoek and Kommetjie. While we were in line to pay our passage into Cape of Good Hope (Table Mountain National Park), a group of baboons pranced beside the car. Soon we arrived at the Cape of Good Hope—situated at the junction of two of earth’s most contrasting water masses consisting of the cold Benguela current on the West Coast and the warm Agulhas current on the East Coast. The Cape of Good Hope is perceived as the meeting point of the Atlantic and the Indian Oceans. Here the cliffs tower more than 200 meters above the sea providing exquisite views even on overcast days. The converging currents are distinctly visible from the perch atop the towering cliffs.

From the Cape of Good Hope we drove to Cape Point where the clouds enshrouded the top. The historic lighthouse (1860-1919) at the top was a prefabricated cast iron tower erected at Cape Point Peak 249 meters above sea level. The white flashing light of 2000 candlepower could be seen by ships 67 kilometers out to sea. The lighthouse proved to be ineffective as it was often covered by cloud and mist. After the wreck of the Portuguese liner ‘Lusitania’ in 1911, it was decided to erect the present lighthouse on Dias Point only 87m above sea level. Don and I rode the Cape Point Funicular (tram) to the top where the historic lighthouse was again in the clouds and visibility was poor—oh well, at least the view from Table Mountain the day before more than made up for it.

Next stop was Simonstown to see the penguins. Yes, there are penguins frolicking along the beaches in South Africa—at the Boulders. Nestled in a sheltered cove between Simon’s Town and Cape Point, the Boulders host a thriving colony of African Penguins. A bit shorter than their cousins in the Antarctic, they are equally as vocal. We ventured along the rocky shore where both Lindsay and Sho experienced close encounters.

Traveled north along the east side of the cape, and stopped for dinner at The Brass Bell in Kelp Bay. This restaurant is said to be run by the wives of fisherman who prepared the catch of the day for townfolk. Here we reminisced about our days’ journey. After all, it was only after seeing the penguins close-up that we had walked to the major viewing area. Here we paid a fee for the brochure which said, “Penguins have very sharp beaks and can cause serious injury if they bite or lunge.” Sho definitely understood “lunge.”

Cape Town and Table Mountain

Breakfast greeted us once again at The Yellow House in Stellenbosch where the whole-grain toast is just as exquisite as the fresh fruit salad. We loaded up the car, wondering if everything would fit—barely. In two short days we will be trying to figure out how to get it all on the airplane??? Our first task of the day was visiting the town center where Sho retrieved her bank card from the ATM that literally ate it the day before. Meanwhile Lindsay returned to the vendor at the open air market vendor and retrieved her purchase from the same vendor that took her cash and neglected to deliver the goods. At the open air market, Don and I shopped for more souvenirs and waited for the girls to finish with the travel agency. They are planning a nice little trip when the semester is over before returning to the USA.

Runners in the Winelands Marathon were heading toward the finish line as we headed out of town. The manager of the guest house told me about this event, that had started earlier in the morning. Too bad I did not know about this one, as I would have tried to work it into the trip. As it was, we filled up the car and beat feet for Cape Town arriving at the Delta Airlines ticket office with only 30 minutes to spare. Lindsay had no problem re-ticketing for her delayed return to accommodate further exploration of Africa.

Our next stop was Table Mountain—a monolith that towers over Cape Town. “The View,” write botanist William Burchell in 1822 “is singularly grand.” This mountain rising over 3500 feet above the city remains a focal point for Cape Town. We all rode the cable car up to the top to have a look around. Spectacular views—all around, 360 degrees—amazed us all including the quiet calm and absence of wind at the top.

Sho found an athletic event that we wanted to include along the way. The ‘Big Walk’ scheduled on Sunday vanished from our itinerary however, when we realized that we missed the registration cutoff by an hour. We headed back toward the Atlantic side of the city when we spotted a great place for lunch—prawns 500gm R40. Decisions were made on the plans for the rest of the day and accommodations secured. Lindsay and Sho found a new and delightful boutique hotel right in the heart of the city with close proximity for the night life on Long Street. Each room of this new trendy hotel, Daddy Long Legs, had its own theme. The girls chose the “Fresh Room” that had a ‘Mentos’ theme. We were given a glance at the “Emergency Room” looking sterile with mirrors all around that had pillows for both the Doctor and Nurse. Don and I found a nice quiet guest house villa at the base of Table Mountain with nice views of the city and gated parking—although as the night long progressed, I longed for ‘Daddy Long Legs’ on Long Street. In the morning, I called Lindsay told her to hold the ER for us, we were on our way.

Stellenboch and the Wine Routes

Our day began with a lovely breakfast at our guest house--The Yellow House. We found our way to the craft market and felt like we made our best bargains. South African craft sellers pride themselves on bartering much like those I have delt with in South America, Mexico, and even the USA. Then we were off to taste some of the best wines of the world. At Lindsay's insistence, Don and I had mapped our our wine route for the day. Stellenboch wine routes are the oldest in South Africa and one of the biggest tourist attractions in the Western Cape. With more that 150 wineries along five distinctly different routes, mapping the stops for the day was not an easy task. Targeting the smaller boutiques that specialized in reds narrowed the view.

Wine Stop #1: Beyerskloof--A charming hands-on handcrafted-type operation with a modest cellar and warm, welcoming tasting room. We found the new tasting room under construction, but enjoyed tasting some of the Cape's finest reds.

Wine Stop #2: Devon Hill--exquisite wines and a splendid view. www.devonhill.co.za

Wine Stop #3: Bellevue Estate--situated in Bottelary Hills, recognized for the production of high quality red wines. This winery boasts the world's first commercial Pinotage planted in 1953.

Wine Stop #4: Fort Simon Estate--unusual stone architecture of both the tasting room and the cellar inspired by Nambian stone houses and medieval European castles. Purchased a nice book of the Stellehboch Winelands.

Wine Stop #5: Simonsig--where we met Debbie Burden, their award winning winemaker. Debbie was the first winemaker to autograph my book of this wine region. We also picked up a nice padded shoulder bag to assist with comfortably transporting our wine purchases back to the USA.

Wine Stop #6: Knorhoek--where we stopped for lunch shortly before their kitchen closed at 3pm. Don sampled their best red wine and Lindsay their best white wine with lunch. Of course, Sho and I made them share the wines as we ordered lunch to be shared family style. The chicken curry was excellent as well as the platter of meats and cheeses.

Wine stop #7: Kanonkop Wine Estate--one of South Africa's leading red wine Estates. Although the owner had just left, the friendly and proper friend of the family neatly autographed the book. She also placed a nice red stamp of the winery beneath.

Wine Stop #8: Muratie Estate--owned by the family of the late Ronnie Melck, one of the great characters of the South African wine industry. Cobwebs draped the bottles that lined the windows of the tasting room. Lindsay and Sho found the bartender entertaining when I asked for an book autograph, they said he teased in Africaans.

Wine Stop #9: Uitkyk--one of the most beautiful estates, pronounced 'ate cake,' was the last wine stop for the day. The name means "look out" which it does from the southwest slopes of the Simonsberg Mountain where it is situatied across the Caoe Flats to Table Mountain in the distance. Uitkyk's colorful history dates back to 1712. The manor house was designed by a talented French architect.

SA Wine Country -- Full Speed Ahead

Awaken by the sounds of the waves only meters away is absolutely the most refreshing alarm. The Santos Express was not the most comfortable, as the vinyl covered bench bed was insulated only with a matress cover and a sheet. However, at my age waking warm in the middle of the night is no surprise. At least the shower was warm and refreshing and operational this morning vs check-in. Apparently there was a break in the water main that fed the restaurant/hotel shortly before check-in last night when showers were completely out of order. Breakfast consisted of cereal and toast with appropriate beverages--coffee, tea, juice, milk. It's been a long time since I had Corn flakes, but they were GREAT! Not to be confused with Frosted Flakes--even though it's Africa. We locked and loaded and were off again for the wine country.

Among the renowned wines of the world, South African wines rate among the best--including the Bourdeaux region of France, Napa Valley of California, Austrailia along with the South American wine giants of Argentina and Chile. Our wine tour of South Africa began at Vergeleglen--a large winery off highway N2 near Somerset West. We tasted all of their wines including whites and reds and enjoyed an excellent lunch on the Rose Terrace. The weather warmed up considerably, and we ventured on. Our next stop took us to the Cordoba Winery. While we were on our way, Lindsay timidly mentioned that her guide book said that wine tastings were by appointment only. Unannounced, we were greeted with open arms and had a very exquisite 'private tasting.' The views were spectacular as well as their wines. We made our purchase and bade farewell. The Rust En Vrede Estate was our next stop where the estate grounds surrounded by fragrant red roses prompted another Kodak moment. This winery, known for its award winning reds was a favorite of Don and Lindsay--the red wine afficianados of the group. Sho however was acquiring a taste beyond Chardonnay. She learned that names of wines exude from the viretal of the grape--Shiraz, cabernet, Merlot, and the exclusive South African Pinotage.

We located our would-be-accomodation at the Power House (B&B) only to find that the Reception Office was closed. Although we had called ahead and booked over the phone, no one answered when we called the posted number. Feeling a bit tired and grungy, we embarked on a mission to find a place to call home for the next couple of nights. Stellenboch is a university town with many potentials. As we searched we found that most were booked. The Yellow House (Guest House B&B) did have availability and we jumped on it. The pool was clear, the rooms spacious and clean--we felt like we found home.

Dinner tonight was a treat for all pallets. We found ourselves lost in a strange city and stopped for directions. The inquiry resulted in a Police escort to Spier--a 300-year-old wind farm that has become synonymous with fine food. We dined at Moyo, the spectacular African restaurant that caters to all tastes. Their delicacies included lamb, beef, ostrich, fish, chicken cooked to order along with accompaniments of corn, potato, couscous, and various vegetables to please even the most particular diner. Service was surpurb and the entertainment bordering on fantastic. This was the African version of the best Hawaiian Luau.

More Great Weather for Adventurous South African Travelers

Today was another great day along the Garden Route of South Africa. We awoke to beautiful sunshine and azure skies once again at Bright Water (Plettenburg Bay). I presented our hostess Hilary with the blue fun fur scarf I had just knitted and she was delighted. We finished our excellent breakfast, packed our things and were off again to explore this wonderful country. We began with the short-version of three circular routes of increasing difficulty at Robberg Nature and Marine Reserve. The Robberg Peninsula is a nature reserve and national monument that lies about 8km south of Plettenberg Bay. It is situated in an overlapping region of winter and summer rainfall where there is an increased likelihood of showers between August and November. We were the lucky ones with completely clear skies on both visits. This was the place that Lindsay, Sho, and I watched the sun disappear behind the slight whisp of clouds as the sky turned pink, then deeper pink to red as the sun dipped below the horizon on the Indian Ocean. On the hike this morning, we all noticed that red ants covered the path as we climbed up and down along the craggy cliffs. The sheer height phased none of us bungy veterans as we absorbed the wonderful vistas along with the waves crashing into the rocks below. As we peered over to the point, we thought perhaps the dark dots on the distant sand could have been African Penguins.

Following our trek at the game reserve, we headed west. Knsyna was our next destination--Place of People, Beauty and Mystery. We investigated several tourist opportunities and selected to paraglide in tandem. Our paragliding rendevous was 30 km west of Knysna and we had a couple of hours to get there. We drove throught the small coastal community and found the Knysna Oyster Co. where the Knysna oysters are farmed. We had lunch that included oysters on the half-shell. This was Sho's first taste of this seafood delicacy. We found the Mitchell Brewery in Knysna--a unique African Micro Brewery. Established in 1983, the ales are all made from British recipes and German lagering techniques. Their ales are unpasteurised and contain no artificial flavorings. We tasted all four of the ales including Foresters Draught, Bosun's Bitter, Mitchell's Old 90, and Raven Stout.


We stopped by a roadside curio market on our way down the road. Bartering is essential with these nomad vendors of South Africa. I was happy with my two purchases although I probably could have bargained more. We met up with our paragliding party further down the road near Wilderness. The winds had picked up considerably and it looked doubtful that we could fly. We followed our guides up the hillside to capture yet another awesome view of the coastline hoping all the while that the winds would wane a bit. Unfortunately we were unable to fly due to the strong winds off the sea, but we did have an enjoyable visit with our would-be pilots on top of the hill. We also saw the natural formation--a small island in the mountains where the rivers around it have naturally carved the "Map of Africa."


We called ahead for reservations on the very affordable Santos Express. Tonight we are enjoying a unique stay on a genuine train, situated right on the beach where all cabins face the sea. Our private twin cabins are small and cozy. Toilets are located on each end of the car with one shower for every 7 cabins. We are directly parallel to another track that is still active between 8pm and 10pm every evening. The Santos Express also offers a restaurant and bar complete with live music till 11pm. Don opted out for dinner tonight as he continues to battle a severe head-cold and allergies. We made two stops at South African pharmacies today, but nothing seems to be helping. The lastest OTC meds included nasal mist. Hopefully this will help and he will feel better tomorrow. The girls and I enjoyed a nice meal on the waterfront at the "Sea Gypsy." Lindsay and Sho once again indulged in the areas fresh oysters for an appetizer.

Along the Garden Route -- Plettenberg Bay

We all woke to a beautiful morning today in Plettenberg Bay. The views of the Indian/Southern ocean were spectacular. Don and his daughter are getting some quality time as we all enjoy this trek along what is known as the Garden Route from Port Elizabeth to Cape Town. Our hostess at the B&B tells delightful historical accounts of haunted houses and even her family's estate--Forest Hall which is declared a historical site.

Ready to face my fear, I announced to everyone this morning that I decided to take advantage of our close proximity to Bloukrans Bungy--I just had to do it, had to know what all the fuss is about. Don and I took off shortly after breakfast and a visit to the internet cafe, and backtracked about 40Km. I was jumper #22 today and now have bragging rights along with the others when it comes to bungy jumping off the tallest bridge in Africa. Also came away with an official certificate, video, and T-Shirt--Been there, Jumped that!


We caught up with the sun bathers later in the day and enjoyed a bucket of prawns at the Lookout Restaurant. Beautiful views of the beach with its huge waves crashing in on the shore from our vantage point. We reminesced about our bungy jumps--how Sho wanted to flex her feet so as not to slide out of the ankle straps; the silence that Lindsay spoke about; the "Holy Sh_t" surge of terror that leaves as quickly as it is generated as you are taken to the edge. Now I knew what they didn't say having experienced the rush of adrenalin as your toes are placed on the edge and the countdown begins. One, Two, Three, Four, Five and you fly as the scenery whizzes by; then the cord around your ankles tighten and up you go again, nearly to a waitless state when you fall again. Up and down...up and down...up and down...what a utterly helpless yet serene feeling it is--to finally come to a rest hanging by your ankles until you are winched back up to the bridge by your best friend in the world--the bungy retriever.

Flight to Port Elizabeth -- The Road Trip Begins (11-7-2005)

Early breakfast this morning at 7am at Villa Picasso; locked and loaded, Zane transported all four of us--Lindsay, Sho, Don and me--to the airport for our 9:40am flight to Port Elizabeth. Had enough time to pickup international postage for postcards and got them off as well. Lindsay arranged our travel and we flew the "Southwest--no frills--Airline" of Africa, Kulula.com. As we stepped up the gangway to the plane, she lamented her reluctance to obtain water for the trip. The youthful male flight attendant, dressed in Kululas bright lime green shirt and baseball cap said that they do provide service even though they wear a cap. The ride was once again bumpy for most of the 1-hour flight, due to the lingering cloud cover with welcomed breaks of warm sunlight.
We picked up our rental car at the Nationwide counter. Cheers to our travel arranger as booking through a third-party agent provided us a cheaper rate, full coverage insurance, as well as a free upgrade. Our luggage fit perfectly in the boot of the Nissan Altima, with creature comforts of air conditioning and automatic transmission. Don was on the driver's side behind the right-hand steering wheel. Lindsay and Sho said in unison, "Wide Right, Tight Left" as we headed away from the airport on the left side of the road. South Africa inherited its traffic orientation from Britain, along with Australia and India. Don did quite well staying on our side of the road, only failing once when turning back onto the road from our stop at Storms River. Here, the river cut ever so deeply through the rocks for many centuries leaving 200 foot cragged cliffs on either side. Definitely a Kodak moment. When we pulled back onto the two-lane highway, a distant oncoming car flashed headlights reminding us where approaching traffic belonged--on the left.

Next stop was only about 20KM down the road was at the world's highest bungy jump. Lindsay, Sho, and Don outfitted in their yellow harnesses, secured by a custom designed system, flew along the 'flying fox' cable for 200m before reaching the center of the bridge arch. Don was the first to experience the rush. At the arch of the bridge, the professional staff tied his legs together and attached the cord just moments before he literally jumped off the edge and experienced the 216m free fall teatherd to a rubber band--mind you, it was a sizable rubber band. Sho was the next to go only hesitating for a moment when the crew began the countdown a little too quickly for her. Lindsay was the only one of the three that appeared to heed the coaching and take the leap with arms fully extended resembling a new bird in flight. I walked to the center of the bridge as their amateur photographer trying to capture their moments. Each one of our jumpers have an official certificate to commemorate the event along with a professional video and tee shirt. They learned to face adrenalin jumping off the largest bridge in Africa--the Bloukrans Bridge.




The rest of the day following the bungy jump was quite uneventful. All jumpers were exhausted and not necessarily excited. Guess I will have to experience it one day myself, just to see what all the fuss was about before vs after. We completed the days' travel securing our rooms at Bright Water B&B followed by a wonderful seafood dinner at a nice restaurant in Plettenberg Bay.